Valentin Yudashkin F/W 2018: Moscow winter

For his new collection, Valentin Yudashkin had one specific image in mind: Moscow winter. But what exactly does it convey? The first references and associations are obvious: snow-covered streets; beauty of a historical city wrapped in thick white layers, just like a warm, puffy coat. However,  philosophy underpinning the sartorial exquisiteness the designer wanted to show is deeper. Yudashkin wanted to immerse his spectators in all the historical, aesthetical dimensions of the city: starting with decorative, lavish Baroque and the old Empire style, finishing with the apparent simplicity of the Russian constructivism.

Everything, from the colors to the shapes, are based on historicism – especially on architectural heritage. As the designer explains in his show notes, refined shades of beige and grey are references to historical private residences, while snow-white and silver symbolize the natural element of snow. Talking about clothes, Yudashkin continues creating in his own sophisticated vein – his most faithful clients will find winter-appropriate coats and jackets, which can be thrown upon A-line dresses or less winter-friendly transparent organza blouses. The contrast between different fabrics is evident: wool, mohair and crepe are matched with silk, lace, chiffon, the heaviness is balanced with lightness.

Embroideries and various decor elements play the key part, while undulating, conceptual shapes evoke the designer’s interest in exploring fluidity of the clothes. And last, but not the least – dazzling evening gowns prove once again Yudashkin’s ability to construct the dreamiest fairy-tale pieces. The atmosphere of luxury was also heightened by the collection’s location: while last season the runway show took place in Palais de Tokyo, this time InterContinental Paris le Grand hotel was chosen.

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