D.Efect A/W ’17: Quest of identity

“Going back to the roots” can have multiple layers of meaning. One of them is engaging in an ambitious quest of identity, finding the most authentic and modern ways to display it. The task proves to be extremely difficult for creators, exploring the heritage of where they come from. However, Egle Ziemyte, the creative director of an internationally acknowledged Lithuanian Brand D.Efect, is not afraid of the risks and ambiguities. The new D.Efect collection is the next installment in the research of Lithuanian style identity, only now it comes with a dash of surprise and unconventionality.

Inspirations behind this collection are both romantic and paradoxical. Childhood memories, triggered by the photographs Egle found in her parents’ album, are translated into intriguing and visually seductive aesthetics, reminiscent of 60’s and 70’s. However, one would be mistaken to think that Egle is trying to hop on the current wave of trends inspired by the dull aesthetics of the soviet times (aka the global “Russian Renaissance” phenomenon, brought onto the global fashion scene by such designers as Demna Gvasalia or Gosha Rubchinskiy). Her approach is singular and has a deeper meaning: She’s embracing the sartorial/artistic/visual heritage and acknowledging the fact that the Soviet times did leave a certain mark in Lithuanian design scene. Egle’s not commemorating those days, though – the focus was to revive and modernize the details that formed her parent’s and her own generation. The whole process of creating this collection was a long journey down the memory lane, dissecting and reinterpreting every single detail in the photographs – the rigidity of materials, sepia tones, and minimal accessories.

As a result, the collection is imbued with warm, retro tones (brown and dark red make a case in point), showcases oversized and structural cuts as well as traditional, cozy materials (such as fake fur, silk, mohair or wool). Talking about the clothes, it’s a perfect lesson in assembling the autumnal wardrobe staples: take a look at the instantly-covetable coats in rich colors and textures, embracing the whole body and protecting it from any hazard coming your way; comfortable maxi dresses; striped sweaters; turtlenecks; flared pants and office-worthy skirts; reworked versions of a formal suit; deep red-colored boots. It might seem like a retro cocktail of the current trends, but these things actually never go out of fashion. That’s why the collection speaks both on artistic and practical levels.

Find my interview with Egle Ziemyte in Metal Magazine here 

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